Saturday, March 23, 2019

Tour - Day 1, Dublin to Waterford

My 9 day Ireland tour began this morning @ 9:00 in central Dublin. I rode a city bus to Paddy's Palace tour group offices and hostel to meet my group and hop on the bright green Mercedes bus. My group has 11 people, from US and Canada, a nice mix of age groups. Our driver/guide is Sean Murphy from County Kerry (how irish!), and we're using a smallish vehicle instead of huge tour bus since we're a small group. That's good for maneuvering the narrow roads! ;) I had a laugh when the guide had to breath into a breathalyzer before the vehicle would start! Only in Ireland...


We left the city behind and drove through rolling countryside towards the Wicklow Mountains. We made a quick photo stop at a blackish lake which the driver Sean jokingly called "Guinness Lake" because of the color, but also because the Guinness heirs own the estate and and around it.





Our next stop was the monastery ruins at Glendalough, the Valley of Two Lakes. In order to save time on researching and writing about the sites I visit on this trip, I'm posting links to history and noteworthy details. St Kevin is prominent in the story.  Around 600AD, he formed a monastery that flourished until destroyed by the English in 1398 when it became a pilgrimage sight. Ruins and the beautiful lakes remain. This is an area of natural beauty and we had time at leisure to hike a few miles to enjoy the trails. The arched gateway and a creek below, along with the beautiful yellow flowers of the gorse bush, seen along narrow roadways throughout Ireland... if you pass a gorse bush and the flower pods are ripe, they explode and make a loud pop!





Ancient head stones above and Reefert Church (1100AD)


The upper lake behind me where the foundation of "Kevin's cell"
overlooks the water. Below, the view from the hillside cell"" of St Kevin down to the lake:




                                        Sheep on the walk back to the visitors center...

Wicklow Mountains history and significance... hope you'll click on the links... too much to write here:
https://www.wicklowmountainsnationalpark.ie/history/monastic-sites/

 I also stopped to take some  photos of the ancient Celtic crosses and round towers in the Lower Valley:

The cathedral ruins (2 pics above), 12-13th century



Left, looking inside the priest's house. Remains were interred here, 18-19th century.

Below, the granite round tower originally had 6 floors, connected by ladders. These were built as landmarks for approaching visitors, bell towers, store houses and places of refuge during attacks.


All in all, a nice way to start the tour, get some exercise and absorb some centuries old Christian sites and history. After a 90 minute stop, we headed south again, making a quick photo stop on Wicklow Pass... beautiful!


Afterwards, we continued to medieval Kilkenny with its cobbled streets and famous red ale. The Castle, Cathedral, Abbeys and Churches all date back to the Norman period following the invasion of the 12th Century.  Fascinating history:  https://www.southeastireland.com/pkilkenny-history.html


Our group had a guided tour of Kilkenny Castle, sitting on the site of an ancient fortification. Strongbow originally built a wooden castle on that site overlooking the River Nore in 1172. Around 30 years later, his son-in-law, William Pembroke, the Earl of Pembroke built the first stone castle. Three of this castle's original four towers survive today. It later became the Irish residence of the powerful Butler family for almost 600 years, from 1391-1971. It was truly stunning... my first Irish castle tour! ;)

 State dining room with hand blocked wallpaper and Waterford crystal chandeliers,
used for formal occasions.


 19th century mahogany staircase


 From the tapestry room in the north tower with thick 12th century walls. A 1616 tapestry woven from designs by Peter Paul Rubens: Story of Decius Mus.

Below is the drawing room, similar to the library in decor.



Library with French silk poplin on the walls


 Blue bedroom on 2nd floor



Chinese bedroom above, and the Moorish staircase, left.

 Left, is the HUGE picture gallery wing with hundreds of family portraits. Above, a restored skylight ceiling and ornately hand painted during the 19th century. It is the 2nd longest room in Ireland!

Above, the river Nore that runs below the castle, and around the town of Kilenny. Right is a Tower base with thick 13th century walls and a narrow window to shoot arrows during defense of the castle.



After the tour, we had 2 hours to wander the quaint shops and I found a little hidden locals place for some much anticipated fish and chips! It was amazing. I watched the man slice and bread my FRESH haddock filet, cook it and slice my potatoes before frying them for "chips". The piping hot fish was served with tartar sauce and lemon, and the chips with salt and vinegar. I feel so Irish! I also posted a funny sign and a local pub photo...

 



In the afternoon we continued south to the Viking settlement of Waterford. It's not far from Waterford Harbor on the south- east coast, and is a relaxing spot to spend the evening with some great pubs and seafood restaurants.

Tonight was my first overnight hostel" experience. The tour driver escorted me in, made sure they were expecting me and departed until my 9:30am pickup tomorrow. The man at the desk took pity on me since I was booked in a room with 5 other people, and gave me a private room and bath, free of charge! Clean and comfy, great wifi... I'm a lucky girl. I'm still super tired from my sleepless overnight flight on Thursday, so I'm hanging up my Guinness drinking shoes for one more night and working on my blog! ;) When I'm eventually in a shared/dorm room, I'll be eager to get out, wander and drink!



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