Sunday, March 24, 2019

Tour - Day 2, Waterford City - Waterford Crystal - Blarney Castle - Dingle Peninsula

I woke at 7am and departed for a morning walk through town. It was sunny! I walked a mile along the Quay (pronounced key) and everything was closed and peaceful.


I visited the clock tower, Viking ship and Reginald's Tower. In the 8th century, Ireland had some unexpected guests. The Vikings came from the north, sailing in magnificent ships, seeking priceless treasures and battling Irish chieftains. They changed the island forever. The Tower is circular, part of the town's defenses, built in the beginning of the 13th century with a second phase in the 15th century. Said to be named for the town's Viking founder, it was also used as a mint, prison and military store. The legacy of the Vikings is everywhere, from the place names to the buildings to the treasures they left behind. The Vikings came to Ireland to plunder, drawn by rich monasteries filled with gold. But as time went on, they settled, forged alliances, established trading routes with Europe and became a vital part of Ireland’s story. Our guide said that the red hair and freckles didn't really manifest themselves in Ireland until the Viking raiders came and had children with the Irish!







Christ Church stands at the site of an 11th-century Viking church, where English knight Strongbow and Irish Princess Aoife, daughter of Diarmait Mac Murchada, King of Leinster, married in 1170. This is one of the most important historic sites in Ireland. In the 13th century, the Normans took over Waterford and built a Gothic cathedral, which remained until the community decided to construct Christ Church in 1773. The Cathedral contains many interesting and valuable features. Its highlights include the stucco plaster ceiling, an elaborate stained glass window and a pillar that remains from the medieval cathedral.

I was eager to try the famous Waterford blaa bread and walked up the hill to the best bakery that makes it, Walsh's Bakehouse. They open at 8am and there was already a line when I arrived! I ordered a couple of the delicious yeast rolls and dug in. Ahh... soft, warm and delicious. Worth the walk! Here's an interesting article about it in Food and Wine Magazine, to fill you in ;)     https://foodandwine.ie/the-story-of-waterford-blaa


It was quiet in town, and I got off the main drag to the upper area of Waterford where locals live. Here's a row of tiny homes with shared chimney's. The ancient city walls still remain in places, adjacent to modern homes.



At at 9:30AM, the bus driver swung by the hotel to collect me, and took our group to the world famous Waterford Crystal factory. Some in the group bought fine cut crystal at the store.


 A fabulous crystal framed mirror....

 Crystal chandeliers, goblets and more.... beautiful! Below, one of the priciest items 
they have for sale... Cinderella's carriage... only $50k!


During the 1850s famine, the factory closed and didn't re-open for 100 years. A Czech master named Miroslav Havel took over, creating one of Waterford's most timeless and popular designs and bringing the company back to its rightful place as a fine crystal producer. He died in 2008. Here's a great article about him: https://www.nytimes.com/2008/09/26/business/26havel.html


Then we toured the factory to see the highly skilled artisans at work. They may choose only one of four specialties, blowing, cutting, sculpting or engraving, then train for 5 years and apprentice for 3! The first step is using designs and wooden molds to shape the crystal.


Then it is blown using tubes. The furnace is 2550 degrees! Next it is inspected for imperfections and those pieces are trashed and re-blown, 7-12%.


                                                                                                    Took this one as a joke...ha-ha.
 
Pieces are then cut, sculpted and/or engraved. Their craft is amazing and some of their ornate creations are shown here. Great experience!



Left, a piano and rose. Right, a "priceless" memorial to 9/11. One of 3, none for sale. Below, some trophy and custom items... Coke bottle for the CEO. Replica of the shamrock bowl presented to US Presidents. Sports trophies. etc.


Afterwards, we continued with a scenic drive south, then west through Co. Waterford and Cork. The highlight of our day was the world renowned Blarney Castle. First we stopped for lunch and had the chance to shop for souvenirs at Blarney Woolen Mills, the world's largest Irish shop. I walked a few blocks to the quaint village square and grabbed a fruit salad and homemade quiche at the grocery store for $5 while my tour group sat down for lunch at the pricey restaurant at the shopping center;)




Then I was off to the castle... here's a great link for an abbreviated and interesting history:
https://www.blarneycastle.ie/pages/castle-history


It was chilly and the sun disappeared, but everything was blooming, and the grounds were lush and green with a rushing stream cutting through...lovely!

 
 A ladies bedroom in the castle. Looks cold!


 Castle dates to the 1300s and MacCarthy clan. Ramparts and garden shown below...




A cave/dungeon below the castle (left) and a castle floor plan, right. The timbered floors and roof have long since disappeared. Only the 15 foot thick stone walls remain, along with narrow circular stairs to the top. After touring the castle, I climbed them, 4 floors (37 feet and 127 steps) up to the top to kiss the Blarney Stone to receive the gift of eloquent speech also known as the gift of the gab. Riiiiiight.... Countless celebrities over the decades have done it... Winston Churchill, Mick Jagger and more.



      


Not for the faint of heart or those with fear of heights.
If you look up above the 4th window, you can see the people at the top being "dipped" to kiss the Blarney stone.
                                                           Castle interior, minus floors etc...

                         The spectacular view from the top of the valley and village below....

Once on the roof, the line moved quickly to kiss the Blarney stone.. you lie on your back, grab the poles and get "dipped down backwards" a foot or 2 to kiss the stone. Imagine the germs... but I did it. Am I speaking more eloquently now? ;)
 



Right.. grabbing the bars to hold on to.
Below.. ready to dip with a castle staffer holding on to me.
                                                                                The "kiss" ;)

                                         The deed is done. Now to sterilize my lips and tour the castle and gardens!
 
After leaving Blarney, we drove 2 hours to Killarney in County Kerry where we'll spend 2 nts. It's a smallish town with about 15,000 residents. I'll be staying at the Paddy's Palace hostel, one of 4 around Ireland owned by the tour company I'm traveling with. It's quiet the week after St. Paddy's so once again, I lucked out and was given a 3 bed dorm room all to myself, with private bath and breakfast! I'm right in the center of town ;)


 

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