Wednesday, March 27, 2019

Tour - Day 5, Killarney - Cliffs of Moher & Burren - Doolin - Galway

A quick mention of the "full Irish" breakfast...

Just what is it? A large cooked breakfast of meat (bacon, sausages and black and white puddings), eggs, baked beans, grilled tomato and potato all fried in creamery butter. White pudding is similar to black pudding, but does not include blood. Modern recipes consist of suet or fat, oatmeal, breadcrumbs and in some cases pork and pork liver, filled into a natural or cellulose sausage casing. 

It is served with a generous helping of homemade Irish soda or brown bread and washed down with a strong cup of breakfast tea such as Barry or Lyons tea (depending where you are) and a glass of orange juice. In case you were wondering ;) I haven't had one yet but plan to...

Our guide told us we'd have a slight itinerary change today due to road work and time constraints in getting to the Cliffs of Moher. Looks like we're not making a photo stop at Bunratty Castle and instead detouring up to the Kilrush Ferry for a 20 minute crossing, vehicle included. He assures us it will be lovely, and that Bunratty from the outside is similar to the two castles we've seen. We'll have to trust him

We departed Annascaul at 8am. Today's emphasis was the Wild Atlantic way, and my first photo was out the bus window... of the Tralee Bay. Shortly after, we saw some dairy cows being put back to pasture after being milked. Happy cows and sheep in Ireland... NO factory farms! ;)


About an hour later we reached Kilrush where we drove onto the ferry and crossed the Shannon estuary. It was about a 20 minute trip... very relaxing. Again, we had perfect weather!





 Along the way, we passed the Kerry plant/factory where they make the delicious Kerry Gold butter and other dairy products that get shipped around the world. In Doonbeg, we passed the Trump International Golf Links and Hotel... very nice!


Then a quick photo stop to see the Iron Islands and an old O'Brien clan watch tower... beautiful coastline in west County Clare!


The highlight of our day was visiting the Cliffs of Moher, the most popular natural tourist destination in Ireland and most spectacular cliffs in Europe. Rising over 700 ft in height, these cliffs are home to some of natures most majestic birds including puffins, gannets and many more. We spent 90 minutes there, and I walked up to the north end and then back south, about 2 miles total. The views were amazing, and it was a perfect clear day. I was very lucky, as an Ireland trip can be ruined by rain and fog, making some sights "un-seeable". Not much verbiage here... just enjoy the photos. It was windy, and we were warned to stay away from the edge. Like people that stray from the boardwalks in Yellowstone and disappear into hot bubbling cauldrons... every year tourists fall off the cliffs taking selfies or stepping on soft ground. There are no guard rails, and none survive!




 
 





Afterwards, we drove about 30 minutes for a late lunch in Doolin, the home of Irish traditional music. I grabbed some flaky sausage rolls and homemade cous cous for $5... delicious!


From there we headed on to explore the Burren, a lunar landscape dating back 300 million years with unique features like underground rivers and waterfalls. It was truly an other-worldly landscape with an ocean view! Ancient and new Irish rock walls separate property all over the hillsides. They must takes years to build and maintain!





Our journey then took us along the West Coast of Clare, and Galway Bay with fabulous vistas of the Aran Islands before stopping at Corcomroe Monestary.


On the northern edge of the hard, limestone “karst” landscape known as The Burren is this lovely fertile valley where the Cistercian Monks chose to construct an abbey which would be isolated yet promote self-sustenance. Corcomroe Abbey is said to have been built of local limestone by Donal Mór Ua Briain late in the 12th century. He was also responsible for several other important churches in Thomond which include St. Flannans Cathedral in Killaloe, St. Mary's Cathedral in Limerick, and Holy Cross Abbey in Tipperary. The church is cruciform in plan although the north and south transepts are quite short. There was a chapel in each transept, and a thick nearly-central wall topped by a small tower.


 


It was customary of the Cistercians to divide their churches into two parts by a screen across the nave. This screen and tower were most likely constructed 14-16th century. The west gable, (shown in the middle photo near the bottom of the page), has two tall lancet windows over a pointed-arch door, while the east gable, has 3 tall lancet windows topped by single lancet windows. The roof above the choir contains some finely carved rib vaulting in the Romanesque style, while capitals (some of which are shown below left) on arches leading to transept chapels are finely decorated including lotus leaves, human masks and dragons' heads. Situated on the floor of the presbytery is a stunning collection of grave slabs.


 

We over nighted in Galway, known as the city of the tribes and Ireland's cultural capital, with a vast array of fine seafood eateries, and home to an endless selection of traditional Irish music venues. A brief history I grabbed online:

Galway City originally formed from a small fishing village located in the area near the Spanish Arch called ‘The Claddagh’ where the River Corrib meets Galway Bay. Galway later became a walled town in the year 1232 after the territory was captured by the Anglo Normans lead by Richard De Burgo. The town walls, some sections of which can be seen today near the Spanish Arch, were constructed circa 1270. A charter was granted in 1396 by Richard II which transferred governing powers to 14 merchant families, known locally as the 14 tribes of Galway.

The 14 tribes relished their independence but retained their close links to the British crown. Because of its position on the Atlantic, Galway became a thriving seaport for wine, spices, and fish, and developed a brisk trade with other European countries. The docks hummed with the arrival of ships from foreign lands, even Christopher Columbus is said to have landed at Galway en route to his historic voyage across the Atlantic in 1492.  Galway's strategic coastal location and natural harbour area resulted in a successful trade with both Portugal and Spain and the city prospered for centuries. However in 1651 with the arrival of Cromwell the region entered a long period of decline. Other prominent sea ports emerged on the east coast, namely Dublin and Waterford and trade with Spain came almost at an end. Many years would pass before Galway would again enjoy such prosperity but the legacy of the cities long and colourful history is evident in the character and style of the city.

Galway's historic pedestrian area in the Latin Quarter was hopping tonight..

I had checked in to my hostel, showered, and was walking to meet my group at a bar that features traditional Irish music, when I passed by a crowded theater lobby. Tonight was the FREE preview night of an Irish language musical with English subtitles! Cool. Grabbed a ticket and took a seat for the show. I'll catch live music in Belfast. This was a one of a kind experience .. very entertaining and packed! ;)


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